NICOSIA, Cyprus: Cyprus' ancient Commandaria wine, praised for its rich heritage dating back nearly 3,000 years, is making a comeback thanks to a new generation of micro-wineries reviving traditional winemaking techniques.

Despite its historical significance, the sweet wine has struggled to secure a foothold in the global market. Producers hope to leverage its legendary past, including its victory in the world's first recorded wine competition in the 13th century and its status as the favored wine of English King Richard the Lionheart at his 1191 wedding in Cyprus.

Known as "nama" in antiquity, the wine was renamed by the medieval Knights Hospitaller, who established their headquarters on the island during the Third Crusade. Production peaked under Venetian rule in the 15th and 16th centuries, when its sweet, complex flavor profile was highly prized. Today, Commandaria bottles range from 20 euros ($20) to 150 euros, reflecting its artisanal production.

Christakis Nicolaou, community leader of Zoopigi village, home to the Commandaria museum, said the wine's notes of honey, raisin, walnut, and caramel are attributed to Cyprus' rich volcanic soil.

However, annual production remains around 200,000 bottles due to declining demand, according to Savvas Constantinou, a beverage inspector with Cyprus' agriculture ministry.

One major setback has been the loss of approximately 800,000 Russian tourists following sanctions on Russia. Efforts to expand into the Chinese market made progress five years ago but stalled due to supply constraints.

Wine expert Demetri Walters, a Master of Wines, believes the slow growth of Commandaria sales is due to insufficient marketing. He pointed out that Cyprus' main producer, KEO, has yet to fully capitalize on the wine's potential. "The unique and antique history, the extraordinary quality across the two styles, and the terrific value for money... Everyone who tastes it for the first time with me is blown away by the complexity of the wine," Walters said.

Despite challenges, small wineries like Revecca in Ayios Mamas have gained a loyal domestic and international following. Since opening in 2015, the winery has steadily increased sales and even won the top prize at last year's national wine competition.

Commandaria is made using indigenous Mavro and Xynisteri grapes, which are sun-dried for up to 12 days before fermentation. The wine matures in reused oak barrels for at least two years under strict EU designation rules, ensuring that true Commandaria can only be produced in 14 villages on the southern slopes of the Troodos mountains.

Philippos Karseras of Karseras Winery in Doros remains optimistic about growing domestic demand. In contrast, others, like Nikolas Christodoulides of Revecca Winery, believe that quality consistency is key to reclaiming international markets. "We must first win over the domestic market before making a collective push to market Commandaria abroad," Christodoulides said.